ʻO ka pāpale, ke ʻano o ke au o ka wā hou

I loko o kahi lumi lumi i waenakonu o Palisa, hana nā mea hoʻolālā pāpale i kā lākou mau papa ma nā mīkini humuhumu i hoʻi ma mua o 50 mau makahiki. ʻO nā pāpale, i kāhiko ʻia me ka lipine ʻeleʻele, a me nā lapalapa fedoras, nā pāpale bele a me nā pāpale palupalu ʻē aʻe, i hana ʻia i loko o ka hale hana liʻiliʻi ʻo Mademoiselle Chapeaux, kahi mana i hānau ʻia i ʻeono mau makahiki i hala aku nei i alakaʻi ʻia ai ka pāpale Renaissance.

ʻO Maison Michel kekahi ʻano hana hou, kekahi o nā inoa nui a ulu wikiwiki loa i nā pāpale kiʻekiʻe, nāna i wehe kahi hale kūʻai ma Printemps ma Palisa i ka mahina i hala. ʻO kēia ka inoa ʻo Pharrell Williams, Alexa Chung a me Jessica Alba.

"Ua lilo ka pāpale i hiʻohiʻona hou," i ʻōlelo ʻo Priscilla Royer, ka luna loea o ka inoa ponoʻī o chanel. Ma ke ʻano, like ia me ka peʻa hou. ”

Ma Palisa i nā makahiki 1920, aia kahi hale pāpale ma kahi o kēlā me kēia kihi, a ʻaʻohe kāne a wahine paha e mahalo iā ia iho i haʻalele i ka home me ka pāpale ʻole. ʻO ka pāpale ka hōʻailona o ke kūlana, ʻaʻole wale ma ka manawa a me ke ala i ka honua mode: nui nā milliner kaulana e ulu aʻe i mea hoʻolālā kiʻi makua, e like me Gabrielle chanel (ʻo Miss Coco kona inoa i kaulana aku), kanu Lanvin (Jeanne Lanvin) a (2) i ke kenekulia i hala aku nei ka luakini bele o Ross (Rose Bertin) - ʻo ia ʻo Mary. ʻO Antoinette Queen (Queen Queen Antoinette) wahine humuhumu. Akā ma hope o ka neʻe ʻana o ka haumāna 1968 ma Palisa, ua haʻalele ka poʻe ʻōpio Palani i nā hana sartorial a ko lākou mau mākua no ke kūʻokoʻa hou, a ua hāʻule nā ​​pāpale mai ka makemake.

Ma nā makahiki 1980, ua hala aku nā ʻenehana hana pāpale 19-kenekulia, e like me ka humuhumu ʻana o ka pāpale mauʻu a me ka mahu ʻana i nā pāpale huluhulu. Akā i kēia manawa, e hālāwai me ka makemake nui e ulu ana no nā pāpale lima, nā pāpale bespoke, hoʻi kēia mau ʻenehana a hoʻāla hou ʻia e kahi hanauna hou o ka huhū.

Kuhi ʻia ka mākeke pāpale ma kahi o $ 15bn i kēlā me kēia makahiki, e like me ka Euromonitor, kahi ʻoihana noiʻi mākeke - kahi hapa o ka mākeke ʻeke puni honua, i waiwai ʻia ma $ 52bn.

Akā ʻo nā mea hana pāpale e like me Janessa Leone, Gigi Burris a me Gladys Tamez ke ulu wikiwiki nei, me nā kauoha e ninini ʻia mai nā wahi a puni o ka honua, ʻoiai ʻaʻole lākou ma Palisa akā i nā kapena kapena e like me New York a me Los Angeles.

Ua ʻōlelo pū nā mea kūʻai aku ma Palisa, Ladana a me Shanghai ua ʻike lākou i ka hoʻonui nui ʻana o nā kūʻai pāpale. ʻO Le Bon Marche a me nā printemps, nā hale kūʻai nui ʻo Palisa kiʻekiʻe na LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, i ʻike i ka hoʻonui ʻana o ka noi no nā pāpale no nā kāne a me nā wahine ma nā ʻekolu mau hapa i hala.

ʻO Rival lane crawford, nona nā hale kūʻai nui ma Hong Kong a me ka ʻāina nui Kina, ua ʻōlelo ʻia ua hoʻonui wale ʻia kāna mau kūʻai pāpale e 50 keneta a ua lilo nā pāpale i hoʻokahi o nā mea kūʻai aku maikaʻi loa.

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Andrew Keith, ka luna o ka hui: "ʻO nā kaila kaulana e hana hou i nā hana kahiko - nā fedoras, nā panama a me nā kaʻe no nā kāne a me nā wahine. "Ua ʻōlelo mākou nā mea kūʻai aku makemake lākou e pāpale i nā pāpale ke hele wale, no ka mea he kūlohelohe ia a me ka maʻamau, akā mau kaila a me kaila."

ʻO ka mea kūʻai aku ma ka pūnaewele ka net-a-porter i ʻōlelo ʻia ʻo Fedoras nō ka ka pāpale punahele punahele a kā lākou mea kūʻai aku, ʻoiai ke ʻano o ka kūʻai aku ʻana no nā pāpale leʻaleʻa a me nā pāpale beanie.

Ua ʻōlelo ʻo Lisa Aiken, ka luna hoʻokalakupua kūʻai no ka net-a-porter, a he ʻāpana ia o ka hui ʻo Yoox net-a-porter: ʻO ka ʻāina me ka ulu nui o nā kūʻai pāpale ʻo Asia, me nā kūʻai pāpale ma Kina e piʻi nei i ka 14 pakeneka ma 2016 mai ka manawa like o ka makahiki i hala.

ʻO Stephen Jones, ka mea hoʻolālā pāpale london i hoʻokumu i kāna lepili ponoʻī a hoʻolālā pū kekahi i nā hale kūʻai wahine e like me dior a me Azzedine Alaia, i ʻōlelo ʻo ia ʻaʻole ʻo ia i hana nui ma mua.

Ua ʻōlelo hou ʻo ia: “ʻAʻole pili ka pāpale i ka hanohano; Hana ʻia ka poʻe i anuanu a ʻano hou aku. Na ka pāpale e hoʻomālamalama i nā huna ʻōlinolino i ko ke ao leʻa a wiwo ʻole. ”


Ka manawa Post: Mei-27-2020